Last week I shared with you a few of my favourite wineries from our recent trip to the Hunter Valley. In four days we managed to cover a lot of ground even though I feel like we barely scratched the surface of this amazing Wine Region. Although I’ve covered some of the best wineries, I wanted to share with you some of the other experiences that we had while we were there. Because what is wine tourism without a bit of good food, some great scenery and a good place to stay? This is why I’ve made the Cheeky Vino guide to the Hunter Valley so you have some ideas to start planning your own trip!
If you’re interested, I also made a trip video throughout our stay of some of the highlights. Check it out below:
First off, what is the Hunter Valley?
The Hunter Valley is the main wine region in New South Wales, Australia, and one of the oldest wine regions in Australia. I found out after our trip that it is the oldest wine producing region in the whole of Australia, dating back to the 1830s. Although the vines are not as old as that, this wine region is rich in history and culture, and with the beautiful scenery, it has to make it to your wine region bucket list.
The Hunter Valley has become one of the most famous wine regions in Australia, despite having wines that are not widely available in bottle stores. There are over 150 wineries in the region ranging in size from large commercial run operations to small cellar doors. Being the hottest wine region in Australia, the wines produced here are unique to the conditions.
The Hunter Valley region is known for Semillon and Shiraz, however increasingly they are experimenting with Mediterranian varieties such as Malbec and Tempranillo. You’ll also find a lot of Chardonnay in this region as it is said to be the birthplace of Australian Chardonnay. However, we found a large focus on Semillon and Shiraz throughout, probably due to the polarisation of Chardonnay.
Semillon
The Hunter Valley has been said to be one of the best producers of Semillon in the world. Despite the warm temperatures of the valley, the winemaking in the region produces a Semillon that is crisp, acidic and dry, although you can also get off-dry versions that are also excellent. The best thing about Semillon, which is uncommon for whites, is that it can usually be cellared for up to 10 years, introducing new and wonderful complexity to the wine.
We really enjoyed the Semillon when we were there, especially as each producer is creating different wines from the same grape. The wine itself is incredibly refreshing, particularly on a hot day, and I loved the lemon and lime flavours along with the light colour.
Shiraz
My partner’s dad described Hunter Valley Shiraz as having notes of ‘sweaty saddle’. Surprisingly, this is something I’ve heard elsewhere since. I actually think this has its truth, but mainly in the fact that the Shiraz from the Hunter Valley is distinctive in its savoury notes. The best part is that most are medium bodied and so go well with food without being overpowering.
These wines can easily be aged for decades, and the only problem you’ll have is choosing from them. Each winery will have some form of Shiraz for you to try, and each one offers a different flavour profile that is complex and unique. You may find you’ll end up with more than one, so make sure you have space in your luggage!
Where to go
We focused our energy on the Pokolbin area, which has over 60 wineries. We chose this area because it has so many wineries that are familiar: Tyrells, Brokenwood, Tamberlaine, Tulloch…the list goes on. But there were also so many wineries that were smaller that sounded interesting.
There are many areas of the Hunter Valley, but I think for first timers to the area, this is the place to go. The scenery is incredible, the wineries are close to one another, and you aren’t too far from Cessnock where you can go for groceries.
Pokolbin was about a 50-minute drive from Newcastle, and about 40 minutes from Newcastle airport. It is quite easy to get to thanks to the Highway, but you’ll need a car to get around. Although the wineries are close to one another, they aren’t walking distance. And in 40 degrees you won’t want to be outside in the middle of the day!
Where to stay
There are plenty of options for places to stay in the Hunter Valley. There are a few large resorts which are well located, but also plenty of vacation stays which accommodate more guests. We also saw plenty of smaller accommodation options with a few cabins which looked great. So really there is something for everyone!
We opted for staying at Harkham House which is next to Harkham Wines. We chose it because it was centrally located, and a perfect size for 5 people. It has 4 bedrooms and a spacious living area, plus you have the advantage of being walking distance to the cellar door! Although it may not look like much from the outside, it is beautiful on the inside and easily accommodates a large number of guests. Also, the view out over the cows in the paddock (unfortunately there are no more vines) is so peaceful in the morning.
The other thing we loved about this accommodation was that we got to know Drew who was working at the cellar door. He lives next door and has a gorgeous wine dog Pop Up who is very friendly. He’s also more than happy to take you through all the great wines that Harkham has to offer!
The best part was the location. We were a short drive from most of the wineries, which made it the perfect spot for exploring.
You can book Harkham House through AirBnB as we did here.
Winery Tours
For two of the days, we ended up driving ourselves (with a designated driver of course). This can be a great option for knocking off the wineries that you want to see if you have someone willing to drive.
There are a couple of options we explored, however, because it was New Years we weren’t able to use them. We were going to use the company iHop which was a hop-on-hop-off bus that allowed you to check off a number of stops throughout the day without a guide. This was definitely the most cost-effective option, and even offered transfers to the main bus stops.
They have also recently developed a number of cycle paths throughout the main areas of Pokolbin that make cycling a great option. There are a number of ebike companies also available that will hire the bikes to you for a day, but unfortunately, when we were booking they said it was too hot! I completely agree – cycling in 40 degrees is not advised at the best of times let alone when you’re trying wines!
Two Fat Blokes
We ended up doing a full day tour with the company Two Fat Blokes. It was handy as they operate out of Harkam Wines, so we just had to duck next door to start our day (but they will come and pick you up). Although it isn’t the cheapest option, we chose it because it seemed to be the best value.
On the Two Fat Blokes Tour, you get to visit 5 wineries (although one of these was the Two Fat Blokes kitchen). At the Two Fat Blokes kitchen, you experience a cheese and wine pairing which was quite comprehensive and had some delicious cheeses. You then get lunch included, which we had at Audrey Wilkinson, and this included more wine in addition to the wine tasting. After lunch and another winery, we experienced a wine and chocolate pairing at Glandore Estate which was one of the highlights of the day for me (you can read more about this in this post). We ended at a brewery for those lovers of beer, where you either got 3 of their beers, or one cider or wine.
Although I didn’t love the brewery, the rest of the tour was great. Our guide was full of information and so between each stop, we got to learn more about the region. I loved all the little facts we were given that you’d never hear if you were touring about on your own, like where Jackie Chan filmed a movie or the oldest Chardonnay vines in the valley! It really adds to the experience and makes something like this really worthwhile.
Where to eat
What I’d recommend doing, if you’re planning on doing some wine tastings, is getting some groceries to cook at home at night. I’d normally not recommend this as I love eating out, but for me, it was nice being at home in the evening after a long day. You can easily get groceries in Cessnock or Newcastle to last you for the days you are there, and it makes for a fun group activity. We loved getting a few nice bottles of wine throughout the day and enjoying them in the evening with a nice meal.
However, we did still go out for a few great meals which were really memorable. There is no shortage of choice in the Hunter Valley, and it does depend on when you are there as to what is open. But there is so much that it can be hard to decide on one, so here are the places we went:
Margan Restaurant
The restaurant at Margan Estate was first on my list. They won the best food at a cellar door in 2018, so I knew we were in for a treat! I booked us in for lunch on our first day of wine tasting, and it was definitely the highlight meal of the trip.
Firstly, Margan Estate is absolutely stunning. I mentioned it in my previous post, but the beautiful grounds and striking sandstone structure make for a great visit regardless of whether you eat there. The cellar door in itself is worth a visit, but the restaurant is even more beautiful. I found the cellar door to be quite dark and moody, and in contrast, the restaurant is full of natural light.
One of my friends is gluten intolerant and they asked if we had any dietary requirements over the phone. I let them know but wasn’t sure why they were asking as most of the meals appeared to be gluten-free. However, when we got there I was amazed by how well they catered for her. They brought out gluten-free bread and brought her out her very own amuse-bouche and sweet. She’s not used to getting such great service for her intolerance, so this was an added extra.
The food
But regardless, the food was absolutely incredible. We opted for the 2-course tasting menu rather than the degustation, and all chose different meals. It’s great in a larger group to do this so you can try different things! The food is mostly grown in their garden where they can, otherwise, it is sourced locally. I love restaurants that do this as the food is always so fresh and seasonal. I what sounded like a simple vegetable salad but because the produce was so fresh it was absolutely incredible. The chicken I had for mains was also delicious.
Another thing I should mention is the wine. You can drink Margan wine in the restaurant for the price you buy it at the cellar door. So what would normally be an expensive meal thanks to a bottle of wine becomes far more affordable when you can grab a bottle for $30. We opted for the Rose which was recommended to us by the waitress and it was a perfect all-rounder with our meals.
Overall you can see why this restaurant has won awards. It was definitely a highlight of the trip for me, and if you have the time to check it out, make sure you book!
Cru Bar and Pantry
Cru Bar and Pantry is located in Brokenwood Wines recent redevelopment. Their Cellar Door is definitely worth a look just to see the beautiful building and incredible tasting room. However, it also has two dining options available. We decided to check out Cru Bar and Pantry on New Year’s Day for lunch. It is the bistro dining option at Brokenwood for those that don’t want a fancy 5-course meal.
The food
I was absolutely blown away by how good the food was here. They offer a wide selection of meats, cheeses, pies, toasted sandwiches and pizzas. You’d think they would be pretty basic, but they are anything but. The pies on offer have amazing sounding ingredients like chicken and chorizo (my partner had this and it was incredible). I opted for a pizza with smoked fior di latte, hazelnuts, rocket and prosciutto. It was one of the best pizzas that I’ve had in a long time.
Cru Bar and Pantry is the perfect spot if you want a good meal but don’t want something too fancy or expensive. The food is really well priced and the quality is great. You can also get a decent coffee for those that don’t want to drink. Or, a well-priced glass of Brokenwood wine. If you’re like me you’ll want this to go with your pizza.
Muse Kitchen
We went to Muse Kitchen on our last day in the Hunter Valley. I had booked it because we had heard so many good things about Muse Restaurant. But it wasn’t open while we were there. If it is open when you go, make sure you book to go. It is meant to be the best restaurant in the region.
Muse Kitchen is next to Keith Tulloch Wines which is in a beautiful building on the way out of Pokolbin. The grounds are picturesque, and the restaurant is off to the side. It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but on the inside, there are two bustling, completely packed rooms. You know it’s good when it is packed like that.
It isn’t the cheapest restaurant and is on par with Margan Estate. If I were to pick between the two, I probably preferred Margan, but that’s just personal preference. The food at Muse Kitchen was also incredible, but the service was a little slow because they were so busy. You can’t really blame them for that!
The food
I had the risotto for my starter and it was absolutely incredible. I can’t work out it had such an amazing flavour into it. Although I had a hard time deciding what to eat, I’m glad I picked this. My partner got the kangaroo tartare and that was also incredible!
They had an extensive wine list. If you went for Keith Tulloch wines you could get a bottle for a decent price. We had another Rose and it was great! They also have plenty of other wines from the region to choose from.
If you are going to check out Muse Kitchen, make sure you book in advance! We would have finished lunch close to 3 and it was still so busy!
Goldfish
We went to Goldfish for New Year’s Eve, and it was definitely a great time. It is set in Roche Estate which has a few cellar doors, a Japanese restaurant and a cheese shop. It also has a large outdoor area that overlooks their rolling green lawn and vines. This made for a perfect spot to watch a huge thunderstorm roll past!
Goldfish is mainly a bar but also has a wide range of food. I loved that they had an extensive cocktail menu with absolutely delicious options (the pina colada was a crowd favourite). They also offer wines from the local area which makes them quite cost-effective. It also means you can try some that you haven’t been able to get to! The food also delicious!
The atmosphere in this bar is great with a prohibition-style finish on the inside. Outside there were plenty of tables and chairs for enjoying the sunshine. We found the service to be great, and we had an awesome time!
The Stick Pastry Kitchen at Tulloch
My partner found this gem when he was the designated driver for the day. He wandered downstairs while we were tasting wine at Tulloch and found it. He said we needed to come down and check out the pastry kitchen there.
I find I often forget about coffee when tasting wine, but sometimes you really need it. The coffee we got from here had to be the best coffee we had the whole trip. But the real hero was dessert. We all ended up getting a sweet as there were so many to choose from! From pastries and croissants to sausage rolls and perfect eclairs and tarts, there was something for everyone here. The pastries were absolutely incredible, and perfect to wash down a couple of wine tastings with! It’s a great place to stop mid-morning for a little break to enjoy the sunshine. You can recoup your strength for the rest of the day of wine tasting!
The final word
So there you have it: my guide to the Hunter Valley. Between my post about my favourite cellar doors and this guide, you should have all you need to have an incredible time! There is so much to explore in this incredible region. This is just a taste. I can’t wait to go back and explore even more. The region is so beautiful and full of special spots to experience.