Last week I shared some of our favourite spots from the first part of our Honeymoon. We visited Launceston and the Tamar Valley, and gosh was it a good time! You can read the full guide here. But in this guide to Hobart and the Coal River Valley, I want to share my favourite spots we visited in the second part of our honeymoon!
It’s hard to pinpoint a favourite part of our trip as I absolutely loved it all. But Hobart was definitely a highlight, and the only thing I wished was that we had more time! There is so much to do both in and around Hobart that whether you love food, wine, adventure or nature, you’ll find something there. Even the touristy things to do aren’t really all that touristy, so don’t worry about doing what everyone else is doing. There’s a reason for it!
A couple of tips for visiting Hobart and the Coal River Valley
We didn’t have a lot of time in Hobart so we only scratched the surface really. But what we did manage to fit in was seriously fun. For this guide to Hobart and the Coal River Valley I wanted to provide some tips:
- We visited at the start of May but it was already freezing. Make sure you pack warm in the winter months or you might need to buy a beanie and gloves from the Salamanca markets!
- Salamanca markets are one of the main things to do in Hobart, and it is only on Saturday mornings. Make sure you head there early to avoid the crowds, especially at the moment as you have to check in to see them
- If you are there on a Saturday, we heard Saturday afternoon is a great time to visit MONA as most people are at the markets. It was not super busy when we did this so might be worth doing the same!
- If it’s your first time in Hobart, try and stay in the Waterfront area. That’s what we did and we found we were super close to everything. We ended up walking everywhere so it was a perfect spot.
- If you have a few hours to kill before your flight, why not head out to the Coal River Valley? It is only 20 minutes from Hobart and 15 minutes from the airport!
A bit about the Coal River Valley and surrounds
There are a few wine regions to discover around Hobart which is great as you’re spoilt for choice. We ran out of time to explore everything, and so we mainly focused on the Coal River Valley. I can’t wait to head back and explore the Huon Valley which is renowned for its cool climate wines.
The Coal River Valley is a fantastic spot to explore as it is so close to Hobart! 15 – 20 minutes drive and you are right in the middle of some incredible wineries. The Coal River Valley surrounds the historic town of Richmond which is definitely worth stopping in to see the oldest bridge in Australia and all the cute historic houses. Commercial vineyards only started appearing here in the 1970s and now there are a handful of small-scale wineries operating in the area.
This wine region is still cold but it isn’t as cold as some other Tasmanian wine regions, and also doesn’t get much rainfall. Because of this, producers are experimenting with more red wine varieties than in other regions. Although you’ll still find plenty of Tassie classics including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.
Where we stayed
There are plenty of places to stay in Hobart, but I’ll focus on where we stayed in this guide to Hobart and the Coal River Valley. We stayed at MACQ01 in the waterfront area of Hobart and had a fantastic time. We opted for one of their rooms on the third floor which is a bit of a splurge but totally worth it if you’re celebrating a special occasion. The room was massive and even had a closet as well as a lovely bathtub. The mini bar was filled with Tassie goodies, and the movies were free too!
The best part about this room other than the ability to really spread out was the balcony. It was quite cold while we were there but it was still beautiful stepping out onto the balcony and looking out over the harbour. We even saw a seaplane take off!
Even if you don’t go for one of these rooms, the hotel itself is stunning. It is based on storytelling so each room has a character that goes along with it that you can discover. They have a lovely bar with a fireplace along with a range of restaurants at the bottom of the building. We also had breakfast included which was delicious – you got a fruit, cheese, pastry and meat platter along with your choice of a main. It was definitely a highlight of the trip!
The great thing about MACQ01 is also its location. It is at the end of the harbour area but still very centrally located. We found it so easy to walk to all the places we wanted to visit, and didn’t even need to think about driving anywhere.
Things to do in Hobart
You know, we didn’t just go to Hobart for the wine, although that was a big part of it! So I thought in this guide to Hobart and the Coal River Valley I would include some fun activities. There is so much to do in Hobart itself, and here are some of the things we really enjoyed doing.
Salamanca Markets
The Salamanca Markets are on every Saturday. Yes, they might seem touristy but they have a good reputation for a reason. The market is filled with Tassie arts, crafts and food to enjoy. It’s a great spot to pick up a gift or two for people at home, or to buy a beanie if you get as cold as we did! It is also a great spot to sample some of the local distilleries – there were about 10 when we visited! We were a bit hesitant to drink gin and whiskey at 9 am but on such a cold morning it was a very welcome tasting!
While you are at the Salamanca markets, you should also make sure you try one of the Scallop pies. Hobart is known for Scallop pies, but the Scallop pie van is meant to have the best there is. We heard about this after we left and my partner wanted to try one so badly that we went back just for one! I have to say I never thought I would enjoy a scallop pie, but it was seriously delicious!
Mona
Mona has seriously put Hobart and Tasmania on the map, and it is definitely worth a visit whether you like art or not. You can get there via car or the Mona ferry. I personally recommend the ferry because you get the full experience. We also paid a bit extra for the posh pit. You get a special area where they provide surprisingly delicious food and unlimited alcohol. I didn’t know how much wine they would really give you on the 26-minute journey, but it turns out they gave you a lot. It certainly made the whole museum experience a lot funnier after a couple of glasses of sparkling!
Mona is not your average art gallery, and it might rub a few people up the wrong way. But whether you like art or not, it is a fantastic experience. The architecture is also an artwork in itself, and I would visit just to wander around the grounds! The art gallery is also really interesting to explore and discover, even if you might not get all the art!
If you aren’t there for the art, there are also some great restaurants and even a cellar door you can visit! We didn’t end up going to the restaurants but headed to the cellar door where you can get small plates to share and a glass or two of wine. There’s also a nice grass area with beanbags that you can relax on with a glass of hot apple cider. So you can see it is easy to spend plenty of time here!
Lark Distillery
My partner has just started getting into whiskey, and so while we were in Hobart he really wanted to visit Lark Distillery. It is located right near the Waterfront and is a lovely cosy bar underneath a heritage building. It was very warm and welcoming on a cold evening in Hobart I can tell you that much!
You can opt for whiskey or gin flights to try their range of spirits. I tried their gins and really enjoyed the ones that you pair with tonic. You can then purchase gin and tonics, wine, beer and whiskey to enjoy after or instead of a flight. The only thing I would say is that there isn’t any food here – so if you are going to be there for a couple of hours make sure you pace yourself like we did not! It would be perfect for a nightcap after dinner.
Where to eat in Hobart and surrounds
It wouldn’t be a guide to Hobart and the Coal River Valley without some food! I had a seriously full schedule of food in Hobart, and we ate at some amazing restaurants. We were getting so full by the end of our trip, but we persevered! There are some amazing restaurants to eat at in Hobart and we were seriously spoilt for choice. I didn’t get to every place we wanted to go to, but I know next time I’ll just have to visit them! Here are the highlights of this trip:
Landscape Restaurant
We went to Landscape Restaurant on our last night in Hobart and the last night of our Honeymoon. It was one of the most memorable meals of our trip! The restaurant gets its name from the walls which are covered with art of Tasmanian landscapes. The restaurant feels like an art gallery and you’re encouraged to wander around and view the art in between dining. I loved the atmosphere in here – it was so intimate. It felt a bit fancy with all the wait staff having bow ties, but when you spoke to them you immediately felt welcomed. The service was some of the best we had – everyone was so friendly, engaging and actually very funny. It would have been the best part of the experience if not for the food and wine.
The wine list is like a bible which is a little overwhelming, but the sommelier is wandering around and more than happy to talk wine. He actually grabbed something out for us from the cellar that wasn’t on the wine list based on our preferences which was amazing! We also got a glass of sparkling for our honeymoon which really went above and beyond.
But then there was the food. My partner was stoked because it wasn’t a set menu, so if you would rather select what you eat then take note! Every dish was incredible, but the most memorable part had to be the steak. Each night they grill the steaks on different wood chips, and I can’t even begin to describe to you the flavour of this steak. It was the best steak I’ve ever had.
Seriously if you are in Hobart make sure you visit this restaurant! You won’t be disappointed.
Aloft
Aloft is situated above the MONA ferry terminal and has an incredible view out over the harbour. Although we went for dinner so we couldn’t see anything but the thought was there! The food here is absolutely incredible. My partner was getting a bit over all the set menus, and he had had a couple of whiskeys. So when he saw it was another set menu he got a bit cranky. I was worried he was going to hate the food regardless of how good it was because he was in a mood. But I have to say, Aloft turned him completely around! By the end of the meal, he was shaking hands with the waiter and telling him how the food couldn’t possibly beat anywhere else in Hobart. If that isn’t a recommendation to go there I don’t know what is.
The food at Aloft is modern Australian with Asian flavours, and the set menu is incredible. Among my favourite parts were the eggplant that melted in your mouth, the pork that was saucy and fell apart with your fork, and the fresh coconut dessert. But all the food was incredible, and it was definitely a highlight of the trip. The set menu was really well thought out, and was definitely worth it!
Dier Makr
I wanted to go somewhere special and so I booked Dier Makr after reading some reviews. This is definitely a special occasion restaurant at $120 per person, but boy was it special. The kitchen is tiny but it pumps out some seriously good food with a huge selection of wines to match. The only option is degustation but each dish was better than the next. It was a seriously good meal where the food kept coming. What I loved about it was they didn’t provide you with a menu so you were guessing the whole time about what you were going to get next. I loved the anticipation of it! They even give you a menu to take home with you to remember your meal by.
The food changes daily and so no two meals will be the same. One of my favourites from the menu we had was the lamb. They also have a wine room that you can go into to select a wine for yourself, or you can choose from the wine list.
Definitely check Dier Makr out if you are after something special that really heroes local ingredients.
Glasshouse
We visited Glasshouse after getting off the ferry from MONA. It is in the ferry terminal building and perfect for afternoon drinks with a beautiful view out over the harbour. They have a great selection of bar food and drinks for those wanting something to snack on before dinner. We had quite a late dinner booking so it was perfect for grabbing a couple of bites. We loved the oysters which went perfectly with a glass of sparkling. I believe you can also have dinner here and I’ve heard the food is good. But in terms of a spot for some drinks with a view, it really doesn’t get much better!
Agrarian Kitchen
We went to Agrarian Kitchen on our way into Hobart and I really loved the food. Agrarian Kitchen is known for its farm to table philosophy, so all the ingredients were from the local area or from their own garden. They used to be located on the farm but have recently moved to an old Asylum building which they have done up beautifully. They plan to turn it into another cooking school as they had at their original spot.
The menu here isn’t cheap but the food was awesome. Each dish was so fresh and seasonal, and the wine list was great. One of my favourite dishes was this calamari that had the most incredible green sauce. It seemed more like pasta than fish! And the pork main and desserts were both amazing. It’s a great spot if you’re in the mood for a long lunch.
Pigeon Whole Bakers
We had Pigeon Whole Bakers recommended to us so we walked over on our last day to sample some of their pastries. I have to say I had one of the best Almond Croissants of my life! It was so crunchy and crisp. They also have heaps of other pastries, doughnuts, sandwiches and sweets on offer, as well as bagels and house-made bread. It is a cute bakery with a view of the bakers doing their thing above. A great option if you are looking for a light breakfast.
Coal River Farm
Coal River Farm is located out near the wineries and definitely worth a trip. We weren’t all that hungry when we visited but still managed to enjoy a cheese plate. It was worth being super full for! They don’t offer cheese tastings but instead, you can select a couple of their cheeses to pull together into a platter. They also have a number of breakfast and lunch options, and chocolate tastings options too! It’s also a beautiful spot with a light-filled cafe to enjoy sitting in while you munch some seriously good cheese. If you need a spot to visit between wineries add this one to your list! You’ll find their cheeses and chocolates all over Tasmania for a reason.
Highlight cellar doors in Hobart and the Coal River Valley
And now for the moment you’ve all been waiting for in this guide to Hobart and the Coal River Valley. It wouldn’t be a Cheeky Vino Guide to Hobart and the Coal River Valley without exploring the wineries that made the trip so magical. We didn’t get to all the wineries I wanted to discover, but we found some great ones! Here are some of the highlights.
We did a wine tour out of Hobart with Ageing Barrel and had such a great time. Although we didn’t get to as many wineries as we would have hoped (due to the restaurant taking a very very long time to serve us lunch) we had a great time.
Stefano Lubiana
Stefano Lubiana isn’t located in the Coal River Valley but is a short drive north of Hobart. I have to tell you it is definitely worth the trip and should make it to your list of cellar doors. The winery is modelled off an Italian Villa and honestly, if it hadn’t been freezing I would have thought we were in Tuscany. From the Olive trees at the entrance to the beautiful interior, this winery transported you to Italy. We were lucky enough to be shown around the winery by Marco who is one of the winemakers and part of the Lubiana family. Stefano Lubiana has a rich history in Australian wine, and after settling in Tasmania they are producing some seriously incredibly biodynamic drops!
We loved the wine tasting here which is done at the bar. There are so many wines to discover including a great range of whites, sparkling, reds and even grappa! Our highlight had to be the Pinot Noir though. There are so many different ones to try, and I loved exploring all the different flavours that each wine brought. We had a chat with one of the guys who worked in the winery about his favourite Pinot clones and then got a chance to try some of the wines using these. I absolutely loved all their Pinots but this one had to be my favourite.
If you love Italy, make sure you make a stop at Stefano Lubiana. You can also get a great view from the garden of Hobart. Also, if you do go into the garden, you’re standing on top of their barrel room! They even have a restaurant on site which I’ve heard is fantastic, and looked like it had a lovely family-style feel.
Pooley Wines
Pooley Wines was definitely a highlight of the trip for me. It is located in a beautiful old manor house just out of Richmond and is worth a visit for the architecture alone. But it is the cellar door experience that really sets this winery apart. The cellar door is underneath the main house and has a really nice cozy feel. Although there was a set tasting menu that went right out the window as we were taken through some of their favourites and got to talking. By the end, we had sampled so many wines including heaps that weren’t usually available for tasting. It was so nice chatting about wine and seeing the passion in the cellar door staff.
Pooley Wines was established in 1985 when the late Denis and Margaret Pooley planted Riesling and Pinot Noir. Margaret loved Riesling and wanted to produce it herself. Today they have two vineyards and the winery is still family-owned. I loved hearing the rich history behind some of the wines, their names and the winery itself. It made me love the wines even more!
We got to try so many wines and I absolutely loved their oaked Chardonnay. We also loved the Oronsay Pinot Noir but that one was a little more on the expensive side (worth seeing if you can have a taste of it though!) In all honestly, there wasn’t one wine I didn’t like trying at Pooley, and with such a memorable tasting experience it is one I want to keep going back to.
Every Man and His Dog
Every Man and His Dog is a winery that you may not have heard of but must be added to your list. It is a must-visit for the cellar door experience which is almost like a show. As soon as we arrived Loretta gave us a glass of sparkling wine and marched us down to her winery. She then proceeded to run the entire tasting while showing us through the process of making the wine. She even let some of us press the grapes with her winery rake (not to be confused with the garden rake). Loretta was absolutely hilarious and we learnt about how her husband bought the winery she didn’t want, how she learnt about making wine because she had to, and why Andy is not allowed to label the wines.
I’ll be honest, it was easy to be sceptical of the wines when you saw how small-batch they really are. But Loretta has one of the best mentors in Tasmanian wine from Domaine A, and the proof is in the glass. One of the standouts of the whole trip was their Cabernet Sauvignon. It was the best Cab I had in Tasmania, and from such a humble winery I couldn’t believe it. Loretta is seriously kicking goals, and if you don’t visit for the wine, come along for a good laugh.
Puddleduck Vineyards
We had a great tasting at Puddleduck Vineyards. They had been recommended to me and when we didn’t visit on our wine tour, I made sure we stopped by on our way to the airport! Puddleduck Vineyards is absolutely beautiful with a lovely lake out the front full of ducks. They have a nice deck overlooking this where you can enjoy a wine tasting flight and a cheese platter. We opted to do a tasting at the bar and weren’t disappointed. The wines were absolutely beautiful. They had a number of older wines to compare to the younger wines which I absolutely loved. The favourites for me had to be the Pinot Noirs. I really enjoyed all of them for different reasons. Definitely worth a visit while you’re in the area to enjoy some great wine, knowledgeable staff and some very cute duck merchandise!
Morilla
Morilla is the winery at Mona and is definitely worth booking while you’re there. You can do this before your visit, but we were able to squeeze in when we got there. The rich history of this winery was so interesting to learn. It was started by a textile merchant on the island that is now Mona. Some of the wines even have a cloth label in his honour! David Walsh purchased the vineyard in 1995 and the rest is history. There are some really interesting wines to discover, but hearing about the history was what I really enjoyed! The wines themselves are absolutely beautiful and can also be enjoyed at the cellar door cafe downstairs if you can’t get into a tasting!
In summary: Guide to Hobart and the Coal River Valley
So there you have it. The highlights of our trip to Hobart and its surroundings. I hope you’ve found this Guide to Hobart and the Coal River Valley useful. I’ve really enjoyed pulling it together and it has made me realise how badly I want to go back already. It is truly a beautiful part of the world with so much to discover. I wish we had seen more, eaten more and visited more wineries. But at least we’ve got some things to do next time! I don’t think you could ever run out of things to discover on a trip to Tasmania though!