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Travel guide to Bordeaux

by The Cheeky Vino

Welcome to Bordeaux, where the joy of wine meets the beauty of France! If you’re a wine enthusiast, you’ve just stumbled upon the perfect paradise for sipping, savouring, and exploring. Bordeaux is all about fantastic flavours, rich culture, and stunning scenery that’ll leave you smiling. In this travel guide to Bordeaux, we’re going to spice up your wine adventure, making sure it’s a blast from start to finish.

Whether you’re a seasoned wine pro or just someone who loves a good glass, Bordeaux has something special in store for you. From where to stay to fun activities, and vineyards to visit, we’ve got it all covered. Join us as we pop the cork on Bordeaux’s best-kept secrets, one glass at a time. This is your ticket to an amazing wine journey that’s full of life and laughter. Get ready to say “Cheers!” to Bordeaux, because this travel guide is here to make your wine-loving dreams come true!

Travel guide to Bordeaux: An overview

Travel guide to Bordeaux

The interesting thing about visiting Bordeaux is that Bordeaux is not only a wine region but also one of the largest cities in France. So there is so much to do and see whether you head out to the wineries, or simply stay in the city. This means it’s a great region to visit for those who love wine, or just want to explore a beautiful city. There is still plenty to do in the city whether you love wine or not.

But for those who do love wine, Bordeaux is an incredible place to visit with so much to do and see. It can be tough to understand what the difference between all the different Bordeaux wines is, as the region itself is made up of so many sub-regions each with its own character, terroir, and wine traditions. There are also all the rules to consider in the mix! So let’s dive into a little bit about the region to help you plan your trip.

Bordeaux subregions

Travel guide to Bordeaux

To truly appreciate Bordeaux, you need to understand its diverse subregions, which contribute to the exceptional range of wines that have made this place world-famous.

Subregion breakdown

  • Medoc: Located to the northwest of Bordeaux, Medoc is synonymous with prestigious wines, notably Cabernet Sauvignon dominant reds. The Medoc Peninsula boasts several renowned appellations like Pauillac, Margaux, and St-Julien, where some of the world’s most exceptional and age-worthy wines are crafted. The combination of gravelly soils and a maritime climate creates wines with deep colours, rich tannins, and flavours that evolve gracefully over time.
  • Saint-Émilion and Pomerol: Head east, and you’ll find the right bank of the Gironde River, home to Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. These subregions are known for their Merlot-based blends, producing softer and more approachable wines. Saint-Émilion, with its charming village and historical vineyards, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a treasure trove of red wines with ripe fruit and velvety textures. Pomerol, on the other hand, is famous for its small, family-owned estates that craft some of the most sought-after Merlot-dominant wines in the world.
  • Graves and Pessac-Léognan: Just to the south of Bordeaux city lies the Graves subregion, known for its diversity. With gravelly soils, it’s particularly famous for its white wines, especially from the Pessac-Léognan appellation. These whites are a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, creating crisp, citrusy wines with excellent aging potential. Graves also produces red wines with the same soil character but with more emphasis on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, offering a mix of styles.
  • Entre-Deux-Mers: This expansive subregion, sandwiched between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers, is known for its accessible and approachable wines, primarily dry whites made from Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Muscadelle. Entre-Deux-Mers is a great starting point for exploring Bordeaux’s diversity without breaking the bank.
  • Sauternes and Barsac: To the south, along the Ciron River, you’ll discover the magic of sweet Bordeaux wines. Sauternes and Barsac are renowned for their botrytized dessert wines made from Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle grapes. These wines are rich, luscious, and sweet, with captivating aromas and flavours that make them some of the most celebrated dessert wines globally.

Understanding Bordeaux classifications

Travel guide to Bordeaux

Bordeaux can be a very complex wine region to understand, and so breaking down some of the rules behind the wine of the region can help you discover a wine you are going to love. Understanding the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system, the Grand Cru Classé classification, and the iconic 1855 Bordeaux Wine Classification, along with what’s written on that label, will help you make informed and delightful wine choices.

AOC: The Guardians of Bordeaux Terroir

AOC, or Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, is like the quality seal of approval for Bordeaux wines. It’s a set of strict regulations that dictate where the grapes are grown, which grape varieties are used, and how the wine is made, ensuring each bottle showcases the unique character of its region. Bordeaux has several AOCs, each with its own distinct rules. For example, within Bordeaux, you’ll find AOCs like Saint-Julien, Pauillac, or Margaux in the Médoc region, and Saint-Émilion or Pomerol on the right bank. These rules act as guardians of Bordeaux’s terroir, preserving the essence of each vineyard’s soil, climate, and heritage. You can think of it as Bordeaux’s way of maintaining its identity and heritage in every bottle.

Understanding the Grand Crus Classe classifications

Picture this: It’s the mid-19th century, and Bordeaux wines are in high demand, delighting palates from Paris to London and beyond. But in the midst of this wine frenzy, there was a growing need to distinguish the exceptional from the merely excellent. That’s where the magic of Bordeaux wine classifications was born! The year was 1855, and Emperor Napoleon III decided that Bordeaux wines deserved to be ranked and celebrated for their unique quality. So, a team of experts gathered to create a classification system that would stand the test of time. The result was the legendary 1855 Bordeaux Wine Classification, which still shapes Bordeaux’s wine identity today.

This groundbreaking classification placed Bordeaux wines into different growths or “crus,” five of them in the Médoc region and one in Sauternes. The First Growths, like Château Margaux and Château Latour, were celebrated as the crème de la crème of Bordeaux. These wines weren’t just bottles of fermented grapes; they were living expressions of centuries of expertise and passion, recognized and revered worldwide.

However, as time has passed, the classification system has faced its challenges. New wineries with outstanding quality have emerged, deserving recognition, but the rigid 1855 classification remains largely unchanged. Critics argue that it doesn’t reflect the evolving landscape of Bordeaux wine. Additionally, the world of wine has witnessed shifts in climate, viticulture, and consumer preferences that the original classification could not have foreseen. As a result, some question whether the system should adapt to accommodate these changes while preserving the heritage and excellence that Bordeaux is known for. It’s a debate that continues to simmer, making Bordeaux’s classification system a topic of both tradition and transformation in the wine world.

Bordeaux grape varieties

Travel guide to Bordeaux

Like many old-world regions, the grapes that can be used in official Bordeaux wines are strictly limited. This means that if a winemaker wants to produce a wine using grapes outside of the rules, it cannot be a Bordeaux wine under the AOC classifications.

The primary grape varieties used in Bordeaux wines include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Camenere for red wines. But Bordeaux’s blend extends to white wines as well, with Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle being the primary white varieties that can be used, adding their own charm and complexity to the region’s wines. Also permitted for white wines are Sauvignon Gris, Muscadelle, Colombard, Ugni Blanc, Merlot Blanc, and Mauzac.

The most famous grape varieties you’ll come across for red Bordeaux are Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon which define the left and right banks. For left-bank wines, you’ll find they are dominant in Cabernet Sauvignon, and for the right-bank, they are usually dominant in Merlot.

In 2020, Bordeaux winemakers welcomed a historic change, allowing the use of previously restricted grape varieties in Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC red and white wines. This evolution in regulations aimed to provide more flexibility to Bordeaux winemakers, offering them the opportunity to experiment and adapt to changing climates and consumer preferences. As a result, you may now encounter varieties like Marselan, Touriga Nacional, and even Albariño in Bordeaux blends, adding exciting new dimensions to the already diverse Bordeaux grape palette.

Travel guide to Bordeaux: when to visit

Travel guide to Bordeaux

We visited Bordeaux at the start of Autumn just before harvest began, and even though I have nothing to compare this to, I highly recommend this time of year. It was still warm enough that you didn’t need a jacket, and the scenery was unbelievably beautiful. I loved seeing the endless rows of green grape vines covered in grapes. There really were vineyards as far as the eye could see and it’s a beautiful sight!

I’m sure visiting year-round is great in Bordeaux as there are always things to do. However just after Summer was a great temperature, and the scenery was some of the most beautiful I’ve seen.

Travel guide to Bordeaux: where to stay

Travel guide to Bordeaux

I found it quite tough to decide where we should base ourselves for our 3-night stay in the Bordeaux wine region, so wanted to give you some tips. I found it quite hard to find somewhere to stay within the wine regions themselves, and the ones that I could find were not that connected to nearby towns. This meant if you wanted to go out for a meal you would need to drive everywhere, which would make it tough if you didn’t have a car. The hotels on the wineries themselves are also quite pricey, particularly in the Medoc region. So if you have the money, go for it. I personally would have loved to stay in one of the stunning chateaus. But if you’re like us and don’t want to spend your entire trip budget on accommodation, there are some great options for you!

We ended up basing ourselves in the city of Bordeaux and I couldn’t recommend it enough. I was hesitant at first as it is a large city, and I was worried it wouldn’t feel like we were staying in a wine region. But this doesn’t matter as the city of Bordeaux is absolutely stunning! There is so much to see and do, and there are so many restaurants to try. It’s also well connected from other cities via train and is a great base for doing tours out to the wine regions as a lot of the operators start their tours in Bordeaux. I couldn’t recommend staying in the city itself enough for all of these reasons, but especially as it is a destination in itself beyond just the wine regions. It’s worth ticking off your list just for the feel of the city alone.

Where to stay in Bordeaux city

Travel guide to Bordeaux

Bordeaux is a massive city, and so it can be hard to know where to stay. This is why I recommend staying as close to the downtown area as you can. The reason is that most of the attractions and tours are in this area. Bordeaux is a very walkable city, but being in this central area is a great start for exploring outwards. If you are too far out, you’ll find yourself needing to catch trams everywhere.

Because we had a car we couldn’t stay right in the middle of the city, but we did stay a short walk out of it near the botanic garden and it was a perfect spot, especially if you don’t want to be right in the middle of the hustle and bustle. This area is a little more residential and has plenty of cute restaurants and bakeries. The botanic garden is also stunning and worth a wander. It also situates you in between downtown and the La Cite du Vin if you’re planning to visit it – so I highly recommend it!

Travel guide to Bordeaux: What to do

Travel guide to Bordeaux

Okay now to the fun stuff in this travel guide to Bordeaux: what to do with your time! Well, the good news is that there really is so much to do both in the city and in the wine subregions. We barely scratched the surface in our three days, but here are a few things I absolutely adored

Highlights of our trip

  • Le Bar a Vin – If you want to try different Bordeaux wines but you’re not sure where to begin, Le Bar a Vin is the best place to go. There are plenty of wine bars in the city, but glasses of wine can carry a high price tag. But Le Bar a Vin is run by the tourism office which believes trying Bordeaux wines should be more accessible. So you can not only try wines from most subregions of Bordeaux, but they also range from as little as a few euros a glass! You can also of course try wines like Pomerol and Sauternes for around 10 euros a glass, but this is much cheaper than anywhere else.
  • L’Intendant Grands Vins de Bordeaux – If you are in the market for a nice Bordeaux, or just want to look, L’Indendant is the wine store to visit. The shop holds a collection of more than 15,000 bottles all stacked on its walls, following a 12-meter-high spiral staircase. That in itself makes it a destination worth a browse! Don’t worry about feeling out of place here, they are very used to tourists popping in and are very friendly even if you don’t buy a bottle.  I’ve never seen so much Bordeaux in one place.
  • Miroir d’eau – the buildings in Bordeaux are stunning, and visiting the Miroir d’eau is a definite must to see them in all their glory. It’s a fountain that reflects the buildings behind it perfectly, making for stunning photos. Just keep in mind that it does get very busy, so it can be hard to get that perfect shot with plenty of people walking in the fountain itself. Someone recommended to me visiting at sunrise and I reckon that’s a good idea!
  • Rue Sainte-Catherine – if you love shopping, our hotel reception told us this is the longest shopping street in Europe! It is mainly chain stores, but a great spot to visit if you want to get your fix on the main European brands.

La Cite du Vin

Travel guide to Bordeaux

I had to include La Cite du Vin separately as it is probably the destination to visit if you are a wine lover visiting Bordeaux. The La Cite du Vin is a wine museum housed in a unique building shaped like a carafe and has a range of interactive exhibits to learn everything you need to know about wine in a fun way. From interactive displays on the winemaking process, stations where you can smell the different wine aromas and even a grape-smashing game, you are sure to find something fun here. I absolutely loved our visit and was shocked that even though the main exhibit was one level of the building, we still spent hours there.

After your visit, you also get to head up to the top floor for a glass of wine of your choice from across the world and a beautiful view of the city. I actually loved how global this museum was even though you were in Bordeaux. It left you with a great understanding of wine worldwide as they touched on so many different wine regions across the world.

We also went on the sensory experience which cost a little extra but was worth it for something different. You were led through a journey across the seasons each with its own audiovisual display that helped immerse you in the feeling of that season. They then paired this with the perfect glass of wine for each.

I’d recommend booking ahead online, especially if you are going to have an extra experience. I did hear some people say they missed out, so make sure you book in advance.

Travel guide to Bordeaux: Where to eat

Travel guide to Bordeaux

There are so many great places to eat in Bordeaux, and plenty of touristy places too. I recommend checking your hotel’s recommendations and also using Google reviews to make sure you avoid anything too touristy as I have heard it can be a bit hit-and-miss when it comes to food in Bordeaux.

But here are a couple of places we loved:

  • Monsieur Papilles – This is a great wine bar we stumbled on in the main area of Bordeaux. We originally just wanted a glass of wine but it soon turned into dinner as we noticed some of the awesome dishes coming out. The bar itself was packed with locals which is always a good sign and the food was awesome. Whether you’re after a cheese platter or something more substantial, you can definitely make a meal out of the shared platters they have here. It’s great if you don’t want to sit down for a three-course meal or book somewhere.
  • BIG Bistrot Girondin – We found this spot when we were struggling to find something open on a Sunday night and the food was so good. One of my favourite things we had were these amazing pork croquettes, and the pork and polenta. The food was great, the wine list was extensive, and the fit-out was really pretty. What more could you want?
  • Le 1925 – We visited this restaurant on our last night and it did not disappoint. It’s got a lovely cozy bistro atmosphere and the service was the best we had in Bordeaux. I absolutely loved the food, but the service was what was most memorable. And their wine list also had some great wines at plenty of different price points. My favourite thing we had was the tuna tartare which was absolutely delicious.

Which bank should you visit in Bordeaux?

Ok now a travel guide to Bordeaux wouldn’t be complete without talking about visiting the wineries, right? And I have to admit, we didn’t visit as many wineries as I would have liked to. So rather than talk about the wineries we did visit, I wanted to give you something that might be more helpful: ideas on where to visit. If you only have limited time to discover Bordeaux, it can be hard to know where to visit. As the subregions are quite spread out, you can’t do them in one day. So where should you go: the right or left bank? Here are a few things to consider.

The left bank: Medoc

Travel guide to Bordeaux

We visited Medoc on our full-day wine tour and it was a great day out. Medoc is where you will find the iconic French chateaus that you immediately think of when you think of what a Bordeaux winery is. The scenery is absolutely stunning and the buildings that you pass are quintessentially French. This was the main reason I chose Medoc as I felt if we only had one day, we should do the area that screams Bordeaux.

The wines in this region are cabernet sauvignon dominant and can carry a high price tag. This isn’t to say that Saint Emilion wines are cheaper, but you do have some of the most expensive Chateaus in Medoc. Keep that in mind for planning your wine tastings as some of the tastings can be expensive, and some visits are by appointment only.

The right bank: Saint Emilion

Travel guide to Bordeaux

We visited the village of Saint Emilion on our way to our next destination. We were tossing up whether or not to go and a waiter told us we absolutely had to. And I am so glad we listened to him because it truly was one of the highlights of the trip. So even if you don’t visit the wineries around Saint Emilion, if you have time I recommend visiting the village. It is simply stunning, and there is plenty to do there, along with plenty of wine stores to try different wines at.

Saint Emilion has smaller Chateaus and not quite as many of those iconic-looking ones that you’ll find in Medoc. But there are still plenty of beautiful sights, and being able to visit Saint Emilion is a highlight in itself which you won’t find a replica of in Medoc. You also have Pomerol nearby which is one of the most iconic subregions of Bordeaux.

The right bank is known for wines that are Merlot-dominant. Whilst you can find some cheaper wines here, the prices are still high, especially when you add Pomerol into the mix.

Realistically, Bordeaux is one of the more expensive wine regions to visit, so visiting the left or right bank based on price won’t get you very far. I really don’t think you can go wrong either way!

In summary: Travel guide to Bordeaux

I hope this travel guide to Bordeaux has helped you understand more about Bordeaux wines, and also to get some tips for planning your next trip. We learnt so much about this complicated yet iconic wine region on our trip, and I think that’s the best part about visiting. You learn so much, and it also means you can try more sub-regions that you would normally try when purchasing wines at home. Who knows, you might find your new favourite and bring home a bottle or two!

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