Around the world, the impacts of climate change are becoming increasingly top of mind. This year has brought worrying reports about the irreversible changes to temperature we face. Winemakers are already feeling the impacts of climate change due to how sensitive grapes are to climate. So how will climate change impact wine, and what are winemakers already doing to mitigate the risks and adapt?
It’s incredible to see how winemakers are transforming traditions and practices that are centuries old in the face of changes to the climate. Experimentations with adaptations to hot summers, warmer winters and unexpected weather events are happening all over the world, especially here in Australia.
Impacts of climate change on wine
Climate is a friend and foe to the winemaking industry. The ‘terroir’ (geology, landscape, soil and temperature) determine the grape varieties that can be grown and the quality and yield of harvest. If climatic conditions are good, you get a great vintage. But severe weather can destroy vineyards, and the impacts of climate change are posing a huge threat to winemaking.
These threats have been around for centuries and winemakers have developed innovative risk management to deal with them. But as the impacts of climate change continue to increase, how will climate change impact wine?
Wine grapes are incredibly susceptible to changes in climate as wine is grown in a narrow geographical and climatic range where temperatures during the growing season average 12-22 degrees celsius. So if the temperature rises, it could impact the yield and quality of established wine varieties that used to be best suited to the local climate.
According to some experts, a warming of 2 degrees Celsius could lead to the destruction of 51-56% of the world’s wine-growing regions as the climate would become too arid and a lack of water.
The impact doesn’t just come from increases in temperature. The impacts of climate change will also be felt in increases in extreme weather events. These could wipe out crops with hailstorms, floods and bushfires.
So now that we know how climate change will impact wine, how are winemakers mitigating these risks and adapting to the impacts?
Wine regions are changing
Global warming is already extending the boundaries of viable grape growing. Regions such as Northern Germany, Belgium, England and even Scandinavia have started producing wine. Some wine producers are also relocating to cooler climates. We’ve seen this shift in Australia. Tasmania is rising in popularity due to concerns over global warming’s impact on mainland Australia.
In this article, we covered the difference between cool and warm climates. If the climate is too cool, grapes won’t ripen. But if the climate is too warm, the alcohol level will skyrocket and the wine may not have enough acidity, so will taste dull and flabby.
With the change in climate, it means climates that were once not suited for growing grapes are now becoming more viable. But it also means some wine regions may become too hot to produce wines that we want to drink. This is why some wine producers are pre-empting this change by seeking cooler climates.
This is going to be an interesting trend to watch in the Old World of wine. Here, regulations around regions, grapes and winemaking are so rigid. If winemakers can’t move, how much will wines such as Champagne, Burgundy and Barolo change?
Changes to vineyard management
Climate change is not only impacting the location of vineyards but also how wine is being grown.
One example is found in changes to vineyard altitude. Some altitudes that were once considered inhospitable to growing wine grapes are now being explored. As the earth warms, vineyards are moving higher. This is because although peak temperatures are not necessarily much cooler, intense heat lasts for shorter periods, and nighttime temperatures are cooler. This helps grapes to ripen at a more even pace, over a longer period of time.
Another shift is the use of sunlight. For centuries placement of some of the world’s greatest vineyards in the Northern Hemisphere were planted on hillsides with suitable soils, facing south or southeast. This ensured they received the most sun and warmth to fully ripen. In the Southern Hemisphere, it was the reverse.
However, to cope with the rising temperatures, winemakers now need to consider not how to ripen grapes, but how to prevent overripening. So winemakers are now looking for sites that don’t necessarily get full sun, especially protection from the afternoon sun when the heat and light are the most intense.
Experimentation with grape varieties
For many producers, new vineyards in cooler environments are not an option. So instead they need to consider whether changing the grape varieties they produce is an option. This could mean changing what they’ve been doing for centuries. Changing from grapes that have long been associated with their region to ones that are more appropriate to the changing climate.
Thinking of Bordeaux without cabernet sauvignon or merlot seems impossible, but the prospect of a warmer future might mean even the most famous wine regions need to rethink their methods. In fact, even in Bordeaux, seven additional grape varieties have been selected to experiment with. The authorities will carefully monitor the grapes for now, and smaller percentages are permitted in a few appellations.
This approach is quite popular in the new world of wine, particularly in Australia. We’ve seen many regions experimenting with Mediterranean varieties which thrive in a warmer climate than some of the classic old-world varieties such as Pinot Noir. McLaren Vale is particularly good at experimenting with these varieties, as well as in the Granite Belt in Queensland.
How will climate change impact wine?
Climate change is already impacting our wineries, and it will only continue. But our winemakers are adapting in response. We’re already seeing shifts in vineyard location, regions and grape choices. But we’re only going to see this happening more as temperatures continue to rise. Who knows – maybe one day we’ll see a Sangiovese in Champagne?