As we know by now, there are some weird wine terms out there. The other day I found another and I had to share it. Stemmy. What is a stemmy wine? Would you even want a drink it? It doesn’t sound that appealing to me, because it makes me think of twigs. I’m not the biggest fan of eating twigs, so I am a little sceptical from the get-go. But what does this weird wine term mean, and what is a stemmy wine?
Stemmy wine is caused by whole cluster fermentation
Let’s get to the root cause of stemmy wine (get it?). Stemmy flavours in wine are often caused by the fermentation process, and the wine is in contact with the wine stems, sometimes for too long. This happens in whole cluster fermentation where the wine is made using the grapes and the stems. Normally, the grapes would be destemmed before fermentation, but with some wines everything is added in.
So why do winemakers do this? Well, it was done this way before destemming machines existed. But more importantly including the stems can add the complexity of flavour, different aromas, tannin structure and smooth out acidity. So if you hear that a wine is whole bunch, it is certainly not a bad thing!
What does this do to the wine?
Whole bunch fermentation impacts the aroma, texture and tannins within a wine. This can be a signature style, but it can also make or break a wine. Some people also find the flavours great, while others will be put off by them. Regardless, having the stems in the wine will radically change the flavour profile of the wine. Some of the particular impacts it has:
- Stems need a high acid wine, otherwise they will reduce the acidity too much
- Stems added to wine will bring flavours of green to a wine, so need to be balanced by a lot of fruit
- They add tannins to the wine, so need intense fruit to balance them out
- They can also add candy to the flavour of the wine without some savoury mineral notes
So you can see that adding stems to the fermentation is a delicate balancing act. If you have it right, the wine will benefit from added complexity in its flavours and structure. If it is off-balance, you’ll end up with a wine that isn’t all that pleasant to drink.
What does a stemmy wine taste like?
So what is a stemmy wine, and what does it taste like? Well, you can normally find out if the wine is whole bunch from the label or winemaker. However, stemmy as a flavour in wine is usually used to denote a bad flavour profile. This is because it is generally used to describe a harsh, vegetal taste that you’ll get if the wine is left in contact with the stems for too long. This won’t occur in every whole-bunch wine though, so you need to look out for it.
Some of the flavours you might find:
- Fresh green and vegetal notes – think grassy, herbaceous and vegetal flavours in the wine. Things you don’t necessarily want in there such as weeds, thyme, oregano and green bell pepper. These are the sorts of flavours that make you think of herb gardens or chopping vegetables. Not necessarily something you want to be drinking. These flavours are usually the most polarizing – you either love them or hate them.
- Dried green notes – think dried or roasted herbs in this category. These flavours are more spiced and tend to add something to the wine rather than hitting you in the face with flavours of greenery. These notes tend to be less polarizing when they’re in wine.
- Spicy and woody notes – these tend to be pleasant additions to the wine and give a bit of earthiness. Think nutmeg, cardamon, sandalwood and black tea.
So is stemmy a good thing?
So what is stemmy wine, and is it a good thing? Well, like most things in wine, it comes down to personal preference. It can be a positive or negative trait depending on what you like in wine. For some, the green and vegetal notes that can come from stemmy wine are overwhelming. They are often characteristic of wines that haven’t reached maturity, so are not pleasant to drink. But if stems are used well, it can add so much depth of flavour and body, and so it isn’t always a bad thing by any means. And no two stemmy wines will be the same. So if you’ve been turned off once, try it again! You might find your new favourite wine.